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USGS CMG InfoBank: Straightening Coastlines

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Comment: 08:28 - 09:09 (00:41)
Source: Annenberg/CPB Resources - Earth Revealed 24, Waves, Beaches and Coasts
Keywords: wave, refraction, headland, bay, energy, erosion, deposition, shoreline, sediment, sand

Our transcription: Waves are refracted toward headlands, smashing into them from both sides.
At the same time they're spread out in bays; in other words, wave energy is concentrated on headlands and dispersed along the shoreline of bays.
The net effect of refraction on irregular coastlines is to straighten them out.
As the waves crash against the headlands, they erode sediment, then deposit it as sand in the bays.
So the waves perform a double action, simultaneously wearing away the headlands and filling up the bays.

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