Coastal & Marine Geology InfoBank

Home FACS Activities Atlas Geology School Related Sites More

USGS CMG InfoBank: Seasonal Changes

Skip navigational links
Dictionaries: Our Mapping Systems   The USGS and Science Education   USGS Fact Sheets   Topics   Keywords   Data Dictionary   Metadata Dictionary   Computer Terminology   Digital Formats  
InfoBank Terms: Activity ID   activity overview   crew   digital data   formal metadata   lines   metadata   NGDC   port stops   project/theme   region   ship   stations   time   virtual globe   year  
Data Types: bathymetry   biological   geochemical   gravity   ground penetrating radar   imaging   LIDAR   logs   magnetics   metering equipment   navigation   samples   seismic   total station   definitions disclaimer  
Data Formats: ARC coverage   E00   FGDC metadata   gridded/image   imaging   material   scattered/swath   Shapefile   vector/polygon  
Comment: 12:04 - 12:59 (00:55)
Source: Annenberg/CPB Resources - Earth Revealed 24, Waves, Beaches and Coasts
Keywords: "Thomas Hartnett", beach, sand, "long-shore current", season, wave, energy, transportation, "sand wave", storm, deposition, erosion

Our transcription: Not only do beaches change continuously as sand is moved through them by the long-shore current, but seasonal changes occur as well.
The beaches change from season to season.
By summertime, the waves are fairly low and gentle, and that has a tendency to drag sand towards the beach and build up the beach and make it broader, wider.
And as it piles up, the sand has a fairly gentle slope.
In the wintertime, though, the larger waves, more energetic waves, pick up that sand, tend to move it offshore, and store it in large "sand waves," almost like underwater sand dunes.
And so the beach becomes very narrow.
What sand is there is very, very steep in slope, and most of the beach is really located offshore finding a more stable position under that bigger storm wave.

Geology School Keywords
Skip footer navigational links

Coastal and Marine Science Centers:  Pacific   St. Petersburg   Woods Hole  
InfoBank   Coastal and Marine Geology Program   Geologic Information   Ask-A-Geologist   USGS Disclaimer  

Accessibility FOIA Privacy Policies and Notices

Take Pride in America logo logo U.S. Department of the Interior | U.S. Geological Survey
Page Contact Information: InfoBank staff
Page Last Modified: Thu Oct 31 04:27:54 PDT 2013  (chd)